"The great charm of the country is its unending variety. In each place you encounter ways and customs quite different from any you have seen, and in each you hear of other places where the customs are still different. You naturally desire to visit these as well and there seems no end to the interest of traveling."-The Man Who Likes Mexico-by Wallace Gillpatrick (1911)
By the time Lorena and I rescued our bags from the conveyor belt at the airport in Puerto Vallarta and waded through the crowd to the mail lobby, our minds were fixed on the three tourist essentials: cool showers, iced drinks and a long swim.
My greying beard and Lorena's red hair are hard to miss. Sergio Legarreta soon emerged from the throng and introduced himself. Snatching up both of our bags, he led us briskly to his overheated station wagon.
Once the engine was started and the air-conditioner engaged, Sergio began talking. It was soon obvious that his up-through-the-ranks hotel experience not only made him an expert on tourism, but many years spent working with Americans had given Sergio an unusual grasp of our two country's contrasting personalities. Unlike some Mexicans who circle a new idea as warily as a hunter looking for snipe, Sergio didn't beat around the bush.
"Let's be honest," Sergio laughed as we roared out of the airport and onto the main highway. "The postcard is almost always more beautiful than the place." Skillfully swerving between a crawling, lopsided dump truck and a pair of loudly accelerating taxis, he tucked the station wagon's front bumper perilously close to the rear end of a smoke-belching bus. Mopping my brow with a damp forearm, I gave a diplomatically neutral grunt and instinctively flattened my right foot against an imaginary brake pedal.
"All those wonderful travel commercials I see on TV when I visit the States make Mexico look awfully good, Sergio persisted good-naturedly, "but I'm afraid people might get the wrong impression. They expect too much luxury. That isn't a limousine!" We lunged around an airport van bulging with luggage and newly-arrived tourists.
"Mexico is beautiful," Sergio enthused. "But what some people can't accept is that our country is more than just a postcard or a romantic TV commercial. Mexico is a real place! This means we have real people and sometimes we have real problems. By the way," he grinned, "how did you enjoy your complimentary sauna at the airport?"
As we approached a badly congested intersection, Sergio's attention drifted back to driving. I knew from Olan's briefing that the hotel manager's wry humor and engaging manner weren't just a happy-face front for tourists. Like most Mexican Hoteleros I'd met, Sergio took his role as host seriously, and attended to his guest's needs with the customary pride and sense of responsibility that Mexicans assume for their visitors. But as Olan also emphasized, Sergio didn't pull any punches. He wanted Americans to see Mexico with open eyes, "to appreciate the country for what it is, not just what we might like it to be."
As we wove through heavy traffic I was once again reminded of how lively Mexico feels in comparison to most American cities. Even though the afternoon siesta was just ending, the streets and sidewalks overflowed with activity. Wherever I looked, people bustled in and out of shops, rode bicycles or waited for buses, ate tacos at sidewalk stands, strolled and chatted with friends -- in other words, ordinary people were working, living and relaxing as people do all over the world--but with a vigor and nonchalance that is distinctly Mexican.
A jet-lagged traveler might confuse the outskirts of Copenhagen for suburban Cincinnati, but such mistakes are seldom made in Mexico. Even in a resort catering so blatantly to Americans that prices for food and souvenirs are sometimes quoted in U.S. dollars rather than Mexican pesos, I had no difficulty identifying the 'real Mexico.' Where else would I see an entire cliffside condominium project being patched together by a pair of skinny, cement-dusty teenagers using nothing but a shovel, a trowel and a badly dented wheelbarrow?
How often do you see snacks like "Raise The Dead Seafood Cocktails" or "Sabrosos Tacos de Labio y Lengua" (Tasty Lip and Tongue Tacos) advertised on street-corners in Seattle or Boston" How about sidewalk parrot vendors or a perspiring Santa Claus wearing shorts, sandals and a Carta Blanca beer sign on the back of his red jacket? Am I seeing things or is that shiny new city garbage truck decorated with the disembodied heads of blinking, blue-eyed plastic baby dolls?
"Mexico is actually more interesting and even a lot more fun than most people expect," Sergio said, reading my thoughts. "The problem is that it isn't always consistent or easy to understand. I call this, "romance versus reality.' Like I said, Mexico is beautiful but it isn't always a postcard."
As Sergio suggested, tourists are often both delighted and slightly boggled by their first impressions of Mexico. That overworked cliche, 'Land Of Contrasts', simply doesn't do justice to the country's unique flavor and multiple personalities. Richard Burton came much closer to the mark when he quipped, "It was an ordinary, outrageous day in Mexico."
Excerpt from The Tour Express Insider's Guide to Mexico by Carl Franz. For a copy send $9.00 to Tour Express, P.O. Box 5710, Denver, Co. 80217
The Zona del Silencio is one of the eeriest places on the planet. Literally millions of meteorites cover the ground in parts. Some have been made into letters and numbers. Although some believe it's to signal UFO's, they are probably to warn more conventional aircraft to stay away.
In other parts, the terrain is covered with inches of a fine, white, powdery dust. Fossils litter the area. If you drive too far into it, your engine will stop dead, due to the strong electromagnetic fields in the area. Low-flying planes avoid it and Loran doesn't work.
After a mere 40.6 miles (65.0 KM), you'll see a small bluff dead head. It will have taken you about four hours to get there. You'll find meteorite circles with crosses in the middle and campfire ashes. These are obviously religious symbols. Visualize campfires roaring in the black desert night, miles from civilization, light-years from the rest of the world, with naked people dancing around the fires, chanting. Would they have welcomed us if we showed up during their ritual? Or ... ? Of course there were also some Tecate cans spread about, so I guess some of them
worshiped the god of brew.
Many believe that flying saucers land there. National Enquirer said so. Sadly, the three-headed sheep and "deformed creatures and people" they claimed lived there were sleeping during our visit. I've heard (but not verified) that, during the 30's a group of believers in extraterrestrials from the U.S. set up camp there.
We camped out and I tried to contact nearby aliens, but they must have all gotten their green cards. My companion just gave me one of those looks that women have been giving the men they don't love for centuries.
You'll come to several fences along the way. Please leave them the way you found 'em. These folks don't need some thoughtless gringo to aid their recalcitrant cows in making a run for it. The folks you'll pass here and there are shy and suspicious of strangers. I'm sure they'd help you out in a pinch, but they have no welcome wagon.
To get there, go north from Torreon, Coah, toward Chihuahua on Hwy. #49 for 82.6 miles (132.2 KM), to Ceballos. You'll pass the road to Mapimi, another of my undiscovered places. You can also get there from Chihuahua. It's 64.9 miles (103.8 KM) south. Fill with gas
before you leave and top it off at any unleaded station you see on the way. Finding unleaded is no problem on the beaten track, but this is one area where a couple of extra gas cans could come in
handy. Ceballos carries unleaded, it was out the day we went through, so fill up in Torreon. From Chihuahua, there's gas 1 mile (1.6 KM) south of Jimenez, only 63.9 miles (102.2 KM) north of your turnoff.
From time to time, you'll see wooden signs saying "Zona del Silencio", and "Zona de Meteorites." Don't count on 'em always being where you need them. Use a flat-topped mountain ahead of you as a landmark. Keep it on your left going in and on your right coming back. My companion said, "Be kind to that mountain -- you will need it later." She was right. It looks very much like the one in Close Encounters of the Third Kind.
You'll encounter kids selling "fosiles." Don't buy any. It's against the law. It's unlikely you'll encounter "fossil police," but it's just not the right thing to do. Leave the Zone for those
who can brave the Zone and appreciate it.
We wish Mike would take a vow of silence, but no such luck. For detailed directions, & many other unusual places, buy his booklet, Mexico's Hidden Jewels, from: 2022 Amy St., Mission, TX 78572-9223 USA, for $7.95 plus $2.00 postage ($2.60 to Mexico).
The Mexican Riviera's jewel of the jungle, Puerto Vallarta owes its reputation as one of Mexico's most beloved resort destinations to breezy palm-skirted beaches, lush tropical flora and a backdrop of majestic Sierra Madre mountains. You feel the romance of this blissfully secluded paradise the moment your foot hits the sand. Whether enjoying the privacy of a hidden cove or participating in round-the-clock activities, there's no better place to enjoy a "classic" Mexican seaside vacation than Puerto Vallarta.
Nestled on the azure shores of Bahia de Banderas (Mexico's largest natural bay) against an awe-inspiring mountain range, Puerto Vallarta is situated on the Pacific coast of Mexico in
the northwest corner of the State of Jalisco. Puerto Vallarta's history can be traced back to the
1500s, when it was visited by Spanish explorers. But it was not until 1851 that the area was
first inhabited. By 1918 (the year it was officially named a municipality) the village was a sleepy farming community of 1,500 residents. It was also a port for silver shipments from Central Mexico mines.
Puerto Vallarta retained its peaceful pace for 50 years, until famed Hollywood director
John Houston arrived with movie stars Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor in 1964 to film
Tennessee William's "Night of the Iguana." The amorous affair of Burton and Taylor made
worldwide headlines and the film transformed the sleepy town into a magnet for international
visitors. Tourism growth was stimulated dramatically. Today, it is a bustling and cosmopolitan
beach resort of some 250,000 residents attracting over 1.5 million annual visitors.
Despite Puerto Vallarta's popularity and the dynamic growth of new resort developments, the city itself retains much of its fishing village charm. Cobblestone streets wind past the white stucco buildings with red tile roofs and wrought iron balconies overflowing with colorful bougainvillea vines and there's a hint of "Old Mexico" at every turn.
Puerto Vallarta visitors can opt for lodging in the heart of the action or tucked away in a remote tropical villa. The area touts over 16,000 units of lodging - from exclusive hideaways and mega-resorts to bargain beachfront inns. Lodging is available in five distinct "zones", each with its own advantages and character. The first is Nuevo Vallarta, an enclave of resorts and condos situated north of the airport.
Second is one of the most ambitious tourism developments in Mexico, Marina Vallarta,
an exclusive mega-project development set on a flat 440-acre site on the north side of town near
the international airport. This development has over one mile of beachfront, a full-service marina with slips for 300 boats, and an 18-hole, par 71 championship golf course designed by Joe Finger. It also boasts tennis and beach clubs, a spa, restaurants, bars and a shopping center. There are also private homes, villas, condominiums and time-share units.
Between the marina and downtown is the hotel zone, which offers numerous luxury hotels
with excellent restaurants, lively clubs and top-notch sports facilities. El Pueblo, the charming
Colonial downtown area is yet another lodging zone which offers three and four star hotels, as well as accommodations for the budget minded and lots of shopping dining and nightlife. The
fifth zone is the lush and secluded region south of town, for those that are seeking a true "getaway" at one of the area's deluxe hotels nestled along pristine and private beaches.
>>Climate>>
January - April
Average high 86/low 63
May - December
Average high 92/low 70
(Rainy season: Late June through September-mainly afternoon showers)
>>Sports and Leisure Activity>>
Limitless year-round sunshine, coupled with 25 miles of silky soft beaches surrounded by tropical mountains make Puerto Vallarta a paradise for those who prefer their vacations active. Every imaginable watersport is available along the resort's 25 miles of sandy shore, and Playa de los Muertos or ("Dead Man's Beach" named during its pirate days, although now it is called Playa del Sol), offers sunny beaches off the main drag. Las Animas and Yelapa beaches are reachable only by boat.
Swimming, golf, tennis, sailing, fishing and horseback riding are among the most popular sports, and those who like to stand on the sideline as spectators can watch local donkey polo, a game they will never see at home. Considered one of the best tennis destinations in Mexico, visitors will find dozens of tennis courts at area resorts, as well as Puerto Vallarta's several fine tennis centers: The John Newcombe Tennis Center at the Plaza Vallarta Hotel; Los Tules Tennis Center; The Vallarta Tennis Center and Racquet Vallarta.
November through May is the best time for sailfish and marlin fishing. Smaller game
such as wahoo, yellowtail and roosterfish are caught year-round. Fishing boats can also be chartered at the marina.
<<Shopping>>
Puerto Vallarta's shopping is some of Mexico's finest, thanks to a bevy of Mexican and international artists that make the resort their home. Visitors will find a wide selection of shops
offering everything from fine art and exquisite folk art to furniture, designer clothing and jewelry. Many of the area's artists can be seen working in studios and workshops throughout the city.
Hours of purchasing pleasure can be found at the following areas: The Cuale River Island, along the Malecon waterfront boardwalk, the outdoor flea market at the Marina, downtown along Juarez and Morelos streets, from the beach vendors, at the numerous "American style" shopping malls and the Municipal Mercado along the banks of the Cuale River. Most shops are open from 10am until 9pm, closing from 2-4pm.
>>City Tours>>
Three-hour trips leave from most hotels each morning and afternoon. The trips include stops at the church, Cuale River Island and Mismaloya Beach.
^^Stroll on the Malecon
Puerto Vallarta's waterfront promenade makes for a wonderful walking tour of the city, and on Sundays, local families and travelers stroll hand-in-hand. By day along the Malecon, visitors can relax in the many cafes overlooking the sea and several interesting sculptures, including P.V.'s famed giant bronze seahorse. Often, there are public art exhibits set up along the walkway. Many fine restaurants can be found along and near the Malecon, as well as in resort hotels specializing in fresh seafood. Nightclubs and discos for late night revelers provide entertainment until the wee hours.
^^Cuale River Island
This five-acre island is filled with boutiques, restaurants, a children's park, a small botanical garden and an archaeological museum. Just outside Le Bistro Restaurant at one end of the island is a statue of the late film director, John Houston.
^^Church of Guadalupe
Located in the center of town, the Church of Guadalupe is Puerto Vallarta's most visible and endearing landmark. It was built over a 33 year period, from 1918 to 1951. The steeple of this church -- which serves as the city's signature -- is an enormous replica of the crown worn by Carlota, empress of Mexico in the 1860s. The church exterior is decorated with angels holding hands.
^^Boat Trips-
Banderas Bay is home to some of Mexico's prettiest coves and inlets. Most can only be
reached by boat, all of which depart from the marina north of town. Ships to Yelapa leave daily
and head south along the coast to this palm-lined village which has several beachfront restaurants
serving fresh seafood and cold beer. A 150- foot waterfall surrounded by jungle can be reached
by a twenty minute walk inland. Piedras Blancas and Playa Las Animas can also be reached by boat where fishing, lunch, sunbathing and snorkeling provide a full day of activity.
>>Day Trips>>
Areas on the outskirts of Puerto Vallarta offer much to see and do, particularly for those willing to venture away from the city's alluring beaches. Most tours can be arranged through the major hotels or local travel agencies in town. Here are just a few options:
^^Jungle Tour
This four-hour escorted horseback tour includes picturesque rural villages, spectacular scenery and local wildlife. A stop is made for lunch and swimming.
^^Silver Mine Tour
Head inland to San Sebastian, a historic silver town founded in 1604. Contact Rancho El Charro for details.
^^Horseback riding
Private and group rides are available through Rancho El Charro into Vallarta's lush coastal mountains.
^^Boca de Tomatlan
Heading east just past Playa Mismaloya is a small village at the mouth of this jungle river with large palapa restaurants and delightful freshwater pools for wading.
^^Chico's Paradise, El Eden and Chino's Paradise-
For a break from the beach, head south toward Mismaloya, then inland a few miles to one of these three tropical parks. These day-use areas each feature riverside dining (lunch only) and swimming between gigantic boulders surrounded by small pools and waterfalls.
Meetings and Conventions
Many of Puerto Vallarta's hotels offer fine meeting and convention facilities. Some hotels offer individual reception areas with capacities of up to 2,162, and auditorium capacities of up to 1,729. Most offer multi-lingual staffs, telefax, direct dial phones, worldwide overnight package service and state-of-the-art audio-visual equipment. Other hotel facilities include travel agencies, gift shops and beauty salons.
>>Guadalajara side trip>>
Guadalajara's proximity to Puerto Vallarta makes this beautiful and historic city an ideal side trip for Puerto Vallarta vacationers. Guadalajara is located approximately 187 miles from Puerto Vallarta - Mexico's second largest city. Daily 45 minute flights are available as well as comfortable, state-of-the-art motorcoaches, which make the six hour journey through breathtaking unspoiled landscape an unforgettable experience.
To many, Mexico's second largest city, Guadalajara, (population 6 million), embodies the soul of Mexico. It's home to many traditions and products most identified with Mexico. Tequila comes from this region, as does Mariachi music and many of Mexico's traditional dishes. Parks, fountains, plazas and wide tree-lined boulevards are sprinkled throughout this splendid Colonial city. Known as "the city of roses", Guadalajara is a green, sophisticated and charming side trip destination to compliment a Puerto Vallarta vacation. Further down the coast :
^^ Careyes
The scenic road along highway 200 between Manzanillo and Puerto Vallarta passes through tropical forests and fruit plantations, desolate beaches, quiet fishing villages, scattered lagoons and lovely foothills. Careyes alone offers eight miles of pristine coastline, perfect for swimming and sunning, snorkeling, sailing, and deep sea fishing. A beautiful view and spectacular sunset highlight the evenings.
Other points to visit along the Golden Coast are Barra de Navidad and San Patricio de Melaque, two villages that rest on a sand bar between the open sea and Laguna de Navidad. Between San Patricio de Melaque and Barra de Navidad is a curved bay of lovely beaches lined with thatched hut restaurants and a dozen or so small and inexpensive hotels.
^^Manzanillo
A popular weekend destination for Guadalajara residents, Manzanillo is not your typical seaside resort town. A certain paradox prevails between resort luxury, bustling commercialism and undeveloped remoteness. Although Manzanillo has not yet developed into a major, busy resort, it has long been a hideaway for the rich and famous who swarm to the luxurious Las Hadas Beach Resort.
Perhaps one of Mexico's most opulent resorts, Las Hadas gained fame when the movie "10" was filmed there on location. The resort was built in the 1970's and has a Mediterranean village atmosphere with its spires, villas, domes and arches all surrounded by fine white sand beaches, lovely manicured gardens and an 18-hole golf course.
Just a few miles from the fantasy and magnificence of Las Hadas is the port of Manzanillo. Due to the city's fine natural harbor and rail connections to the interior of the country, Manzanillo is Mexico's door to trade with the Orient, handling enormous shipments of industrial and agricultural output. Spots of special interest in and around Manzanillo include Playa de Oro, a secluded beach about 20 minutes away which offers excellent surfing waters; Playa Miramar and Audiencia are two other beaches in the area. Playa El Tesoro is popular with surfers, and for travelers on budgets, nearby Playa Las Brisas and Playa Azul offer long stretches of white beach and moderately-priced hotels. The city of Colima, 61 miles away, is known for its gardens and
Hi folks. Charlie Collins here--the guy driving the Model A Ford to La Paz to look for a Mexican girl to marry.
I had a hell of a trip on the way down this year. Ran low on oil first day out, and going through San Diego the extension for the hitch bent down and drug on the road. I stayed in the new Punta Baja in El Rosario for one week. On my third day of driving, I fried the engine and blew a headgasket and did damage to the valves. They sure clattered a lot. I stayed in Catavina for two days and replaced the gasket. I decided to drive at night, since I was having bad luck in the heat of the day. A few hours after dark the engine died and I coasted down a hill and into a nice turn-off and slept in the car. The sky in this area lays right on the ground. You can reach out and touch the stars.
After checking out the carburetor, I discovered the wire going into the distributor was not making good contact, so I wiggled it and the engine started right away. Boy, it is a lonely, scary feeling driving an antique in the hot sun across miles of desert alone. But, I had no real trouble, only overheating all the time. I'd rest every few hours and met many interesting local people that way. When I'd pull into towns along the way, people flocked around and were always interested in seeing the engine. The last day a friend pulled my trailer up the long grade from Loreto or I'd have never made it. I pushed the "A" all day, stopping every half hour or so and putting about two litres of water in the radiator at each stop. At this point, I had gone through almost all of the twenty gallons of water I carried with me. I will never again try to pull a trailer behind my "A" unless the engine is souped up to handle the long drive to La Paz.
So far, I have no girl friend. Not even a date. There are lots of beautiful girls here, but none seem anxious to go out. For the first three weeks in La Paz I stayed in a hotel, and then I pitched a tent next to my friend's trailer right on the beach. While I was sleeping one night, someone came into my tent and stole my fanny pack with all my money and my father's antique watch. I promptly moved to better lodging for about $100 per month.
About the fourth driving day on my way to La Paz, I played a Connie Francis tape, and the car seemed to run better so for the rest of my drive I drove to Connies' music."Crusin' with Connie", I called it. I have decided to name my car "Connie".
Charles Collins
^^MONTEZUMA'S REVENGE
My wife and I have a new twist on the story about "Montezuma's Revenge". We have been traveling in Mexico since 1965, both in Baja and the mainland and have never become ill from the "water" nor any other source. This summer we drove 5,400 miles in our motorhome and spent four months seeing 13 states in our own country and, yes, you guess it, we became ill. We believe we received some contaminated water which caused us an upper intestinal bacterial infection. After two weeks of "fighting it" we visited our doctor and found relief. We are not looking forward to the time when our motorhome heads south to the land of sunshine and water that has never caused us any problems.
We thoroughly enjoy your newsletter and look forward to each new edition. Keep up the good work and good luck in the future.
Lou and Sharon Thoenes
^^WIN A PICKUP
On a recent trip to Puerto Vallarta, we crossed the Mexican states borders and were stopped three time for car searches. They had us drive over the old-fashioned type concrete "lube pit", (now replaced by electric hoists) where they checked the underside of the car. We never figured out what the officials were looking for.
Our roundtrip highway cuota fees to Puerta Vallarta totaled about $100 U.S. each way, but we skipped about half the toll routes. Also, on the way down there was a "half-price special" on the most expensive road from Culiacan to Mazatlan. Another "gimmick" offered by Sinaloa to encourage people to use the toll routes were drawing tickets for a new pick-up truck!
In recent years Puerto Vallarta has been undergoing thorough street, sewer, water-line and general utility and "face-lifting" repairs. "Perdone las molestias" signs are everywhere. All the streets are being re-cobble-stoned and the many completed ones are delightfully smooth. There are many new buses with slightly higher prices, but still very reasonable fares -- just think-no more strangling exhaust fumes!
Mexico has traffic laws very similar to California. The application of their laws is what makes the difference between Mexico and California. The law in Mexico is based on the Napoleonic Code where guilt prevails over the assumption of innocence. In California the law is based on the English Common Law where innocence prevails over the assumption of guilt.
Mexico, like California does not have compulsory automobile insurance. The basic difference between Mexico and California's financial responsibility law is that anyone involved in an accident in Mexico must have the means to respond to damages or injuries they may be responsible for in cash or with a Mexican automobile liability insurance policy. All parties involved in an automobile accident are detained to assess responsibility. When the accident does not place the life of the victim(s) in jeopardy, or killed, only the vehicle is impounded by the authorities as collateral to obligate the owner of the vehicle to pay for the damages or injuries. When the accident results in serious injuries or death, then both parties are placed in custody. By parties, I am referring only to the operators of the vehicles involved. As soon as the authorities determine who was at fault, the innocent driver is released. The responsible driver continues to be detained until he guarantees payment to the victim, and a fine for having caused the accident.
Motorists involved in the so-called fender-bender accidents are never incarcerated. The driver of the vehicle may be asked to accompany the police officer to the police station, but it will be merely to complete the necessary accident report. Vehicles involved in this type of accident are usually impounded for investigation. Once blame is established, the negligent driver's vehicle will remain impounded until he pays the damages. Assessment of damages is normally handled by the officer in charge at the police station.
Automobile accidents in Mexico are considered a criminal offense and therefore the fine is imposed. A judge decides how much victims of an automobile accident should receive when the injuries are serious. The judges decision, in case of death, is determined by using the minimum wage for the region as a base, and multiplying by a factor of 4, then by 790 (two years plus two months) to come up with the total indemnity which the victims family is entitled to receive. Where there is permanent disability, the same formula is followed, except that instead of multiplying by 790 days, the judge multiplies by 1,095 days (three years). The judge may also order that an additional one-third of the total indemnity be paid for moral indemnity (pain, suffering, etc.), plus all medical expenses which the victim(s) may have incurred. There are no trials by jury in Mexico. The judge has the final word on any judgments to be rendered and there is no appeal process.
For more information about Mexican insurance, contact Oscar Padilla Mexican Insurance Company at 800-258-8600.
Ceviche (sometimes spelled "cebiche" or "sibche") is a seafood appetizer consisting of fish or shellfish marinated in lime juice until "cooked." It's very popular throughout Pacific Mexico, and for every cook, you'll find a different recipe--it can be a wonderful experience in one restaurant and a poor excuse for getting rid of fish scraps in another.
Since it's easy to make even while camping on the beach (no fire necessary) ceviche offers an excellent alternative to the usual fried, baked, or grilled fish dished with which most Mexico anglers are acquainted. One of the best fishes to use for ceviche is the sierra, a common type of mackerel usually caught inshore-offshore; John Steinbeck, during his 1941 Sea of Cortez expedition, pronounced it "the most delicious fish of all." Other great candidates for ceviche are halibut, shark, shrimp, lobster, or just about any other fish whose flesh is not too "dry" (the oilier the better, since the lime juice counteracts the oil). Always use only the freshest fish available.
>>Serves four
1/2 pound fresh sierra fillets, thinly sliced
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
one avocado, peeled and cut into half-inch cubes
eight ripe, red cherry tomatoes cut in half (or 1 large ripe tomato)
one serrano chile, minced (or more if you want it really hot)
two tbsp. fresh cilantro leaves, minced
one tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. salt (optional)
>>
Put the sliced sierra in a large bowl, mix with the lime juice, and marinate in a cooler for a half-hour. Drain; gently toss with the remaining ingredients. Best served with fresh tortilla chips (or spread over tostadas, whole fried corn tortillas) and cold cerveza.
Living traveling and taking things as they come, Carl Franz shows you how to handle just about every situation you may run into with wit, warmth and wisdom. "The best guide book to adventure in the whole world"-Harper's.
To order, send check for money order for $18.95 to Wide World Books and Maps, 1911 N 45th St., Seattle, WA 98103. Include $2.50 postage
Baja Sun-Baja's English Language Newspaper for information on hotels, motels, bed & breakfast, fishing reports, classified ads and more. Subscription price for U.S. addresses $18.00 per year, Canada and Mexico $32.00 per year. 12 issues. Write to Baja Sun, P.O. Box 8530, Chula Vista, Ca. 91912-8530
*New* Northern Mexico Handbook (the Sea of Cortez to the Gulf of Mexico) by Joe Cummings
Rediscover the tradition, intrigue, and untrammeled wilderness of the Greater Southwest-all within a day's drive of the U.S.-Mexican border. With Northern Mexico Handbook you'll relax on white-sand beaches, tropical lagoons, and islands off Sonora, Sinaloa, and Tamaulipas; hike the majestic cloud forests of the Sierra Madre Oriental; journey through largely undiscovered river canyons in Durango and Chihuahua; ride the spectacular "Copper Canyon" Chihuahua al Pacifico train across the Sierra Madre Occidental; visit Huastec villages and hidden waterfalls; and marvel at Mexico's finest baroque cathedral architecture. Published by Moon Publications, Inc. To order the book, call 800-345-5473. $16.95. Available in general and travel bookstores.
Extensive online database of files for downloading on business, travel and recreation in Mexico. Chat area and e-mail for members. Have your terminal call (619) 698-
We welcome your comments and observations! We have been publishing articles on Mexico for the past five years and have extensive information on travel. To submit an article for possible future publication, or for information on resource listing, e-mail to publisher at the following online address:
